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Frederick B. De Berard, 

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EDITOR OF 



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THE HABERDASHER, 



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Jos, )N. piBSON, Publisher, 75 7 J3roadway, J^ew York. 






Table of Contents. 



THE FULL DRESS SUIT. 
When to Wear It, Material, The Coat, The Vest, i. — Illustration, 2.— The Trousers, 
The Collar, The Shirt, 3.— The Tie, The Cuffs, The Jewelry, The Shoes, 4.— The Hat, 
Miscellaneous, 6. 

THE PRINCE ALBERT SUIT. 

Illustration, 5.— When to Wear It, The Materials, 6.— The Cut, The Collars and Cuffs, 
The Shirt, The Scarf, 7.— The Gloves, Shoes, Hats, 9. 

THE CUTAWAY AND SACK SUITS. 
Illustration, 8. — The Cutaway and Its Occasion, 9.— The Sack and Its Occasion, The 
Accessories, 10. — The Shape, Vests, Hats, 12. 

COLLARS AND CUFFS. 

Illustration, n. — General description, 12, 13. 

SHIRTS. 

Full Dress, Half Dress, Street Dress, 13. — Fancy Shirts, 14. 

SCARFS AND TIES. 

Full Dress, Four-in-Hand, Teck, 14. — Flat, Windsor, De Joinville, 15. 

GLOVES. 

Full Dress, 15. — Street, Driving, 16. 

HATS. 

With Dress Suits, Prince Albert, Cutaway, Sack, 16. 

SHOES. 

Full Dress, Half Dress, Street, Negligee, 16. 

DRESS FOR VARIOUS OCCASIONS. 

Evening Wear, Day Wear, 17. 

DIAGRAMS. 
How to Tie a De Joinville or Windsor Scarf, 18, 19.— Hew to Tie a Foui-in-Hand, 20 



Index. 



Afternoon Dress, ... 

Balls, Dress for - 

Bosom Pins, • 

Business Dress, - 

Calls, Afternoon Dress for Formal, 

Calls, Evening Dress for Formal, - 



Calls, Evening Dress for Social. - 6, 

Collars, for Full Dress, - 

Collars, for Half Dress, 

Collars, for Prince Albert Suit, 

Collars, Illustrations, - - - 

Collars, Types of 

Concerts, Dress for - 6, 

Concerts, Parlor, Dress for 

Cuff Buttons, - 

Cuffs, - - - - <j, 7, ii, 

Cutaway Suit, Accessories, The 

Cutaway Suit, Vest, 

Cutaway Suit, Shape. 

Cutaway Suit, Hat, 

Cutaway Suit, Illustration, 

Cutaway Suit, Occasions for 

Day Dress, - 

De Joinville Scarfs, How to Tie, 15, 

Diamonds, ------ 

Dinners, Dress for - 

Dinners, Dress for Informal - 6, 

Evening Dress, -~ 

Full Dress Suit, ... - 

Full Dress Suit, Accessories, The ' : 

Full Dress Suit, Coat, The - 

Full Dress Suit. Collar, The - 



Full Dress Suit, Gloves, The 
Full Dress Suit, Hat, The 
Full Dress Suit, Illustration, 
Full Dress Suit, Material, The 
Full Dress Suit, Mufflers, - 
Full Dress Suit, Shirt Studs, - 
Full Dress Suit, Shirt, The 
Full Dress Suit, Shoes, The 
Full Dress Suit, Tie, The - 
Full Dress Suit, Trousers, The 
Full Dress Suit, Undervests, 
Full Dress Suit, Vest, The 
Full Dress Suit, When to Wear It, 
Gloves, Driving, - - - 

Gloves, Full Dress, 
Gloves, Prince Albert Suit, 
Gloves, Street, Walking, etc.. 
Hats, Derby, When to'Wear, 
Hats, for Cutaway, 
Hats, for Full Dress, - 
Hats, for Prince Albert Suit. - 
Hats, for Sack Suit, - 
Hats, Opera or Crush, 
Jewelry, Bosom Pins, 
Jewelry, Cuff Buttons, - - - 
Jewelry, Diamonds, - 
Jewelry, Scarf Pins, - - - 
Jewelry, Shirt Studs, 
Jewelry, Watch Chains. 
Mufflers, ----- 
Negligee Dress, - - - - 
Occasions, Dress for Various 



9 
16 
16 

12, l6 

6, 16 

12, l6 

- 6 



4 

7, 15 

4 

- 4 

6 

10, 17 

17 



Opera, Dress for - - -1,6.13,17 
Opera Parties, Dress for - - 1, 17 

Parties, Dress for - - - - 1, 17 
Prince Albert Suit, Collar f>r - - 7 
Prince Albert Suit, Cut, The - 7 

Prince Albert Suit, Gloves. - - 9 

Prince Albert Suit, Hat, - - 9 

Prince Albert Suit, Illustration, - 5 

Prince Albert Suit, Materials, - - 6 
Prince Albert Suit, Scarfs and Ties, - 7 
Prince Albert Suit, Shirt, The - 7 

Prince Albert Suit, Shoes, 9 

Prince Albert Suit, When to Wear It, 6, 17 
Receptions, Dress lor Day, - -6,17 
Receptions, Dress for Evening - 1, 17 
Sack Suit, Accessories, The 10 

Sack Suit, Hat, - - - - - 12 
Sack Suit, Illustration, - - - 8 

Sack Suit, Occasionsfor - - - 10 
Sack Suit, Shape, 12 

Sack Suit, Vest. - - - - - 12 

Scarf Pins, 7, 15 

Scarfs and Ties, De Joinville, - 15, 18, 19 
Scarfs and Ties, Flats, - - 7, 15 

Scarfs and Ties, Four-in-Hand, 7, 12, 14 
Scarfs and Ties. Full Dress, - 4, 14 



Scarfs and Ties, Prince Albert Suit, 
Scarfs and Ties, Tecks, 7, 

Scarfs and Ties, Windsor, 
Shirts, Fancy, When to Wear, 
Shirts, for Business, Street, Morning, 
Shirts, for Cutaway, 
Shirts, for Full Dress, 
Shirts, for Half Dress, - - - 
Shirts, for Prince Albert. 
Shoes, for Full Dress, - 
Shoes, for Half Dress, - 

Shoes, for Negligee, - 
Shoes, for Prince Albert Suit. - 
Shoes, for Street, ... - 
Teas, Afternoon, Dress for 
Theatre, Dress for 6, 

Theatre Parties, Dress f< r 
Undervests, .... 

Vests, for Cutaway Suit, 
Vests, for Full Dress Suit, - 
Vests, for Prince Albert Suit, - 
Vests, for Sack Suit, - - - 
Weddings, Dress for Day, 
Weddings, Dress for Evening. 
Windsor Ties, ------ 

Yachting Dress, - 



- 7 

12, 14 
15 

13, 14 

13 

3, 13 

13 

7, 13 

4,16 

16 

- 16 

9 

- 16 

6,17 

10, 17 

ii 17 

- 6 
12 

1 

6,7 

12 

6,17 

*i 17 

*5 

- 17 



#jv* 



The Full Dress Suit. 



When to T^HE Full Dress Suit is distinctively the evening- 
Wear it. JL dress, and should never be worn before the even- 
ing dinner. It can be worn anywhere in the evening and 
must be worn on all occasions of formal ceremony, such as weddings, parties, 
dinners, receptions, theatre and opera parties, and other occasions whose 
formal character is indicated by a formal invitation, and where social 
amenities are at their highest. A Full Dress Suit should not be worn 
during the day on any occasion whatever, but during the evening it may 
be worn whenever and wherever the wearer likes ; but for formal occasions 
it is absolutely requisite. 

Material. Fine' black worsted, either of very narrow diagonal or 

of fine wales running nearly straight across the web, is the 
proper material for coat, trousers and vest; or, if desired, 
the latter may be of white silk or satin. 

The Coat. Coats may have collars cut either with or without lapels. 

The roll in either case is light and long, extending to 
within five inches of the waist. Both styles are faced wich 
satin — the lapels for about half their width, the "shawl " collar (that with- 
out lapels) to the outer edge. The skirts taper from the hips to a narrow 
bottom. Sleeves are moderately close, finished with real or imitation cuffs. 
The edges are bound with very narrow binding. 

The Vest. Handsome embroidery upon the vest is very desirable, but 

not absolutely essential. If the material is the same 

as the suit, it may be either plain or embroidered with 

any degree of elegance for which the wearer is willing to pay. The em- 




The Full Dress Suit. 



broidery is applied about an inch from the edge, along the collar, down the 
front and across the bottom and pockets. If of white silk or satin, it may be 
embroidered in the same manner, or may have an all-over embossed or em- 
broidered pattern. The silk or satin vests are favored by elegant dressers. 
The vest may have either three buttons, spaced about 1% inches apart, or 
four buttons, spaced about 2 inches apart. The opening is moderately 
curved, or shield-shape, and the collar narrow. 

TheTrousers. About 17^ inches at the knee and 17 inches at the bottom 
is the proper size, making the trousers neither tight nor 
baggy, but trim and shapely. They are finished plain with 
no braid down the side seams. 

The Collar. The collar should be moderately high, and may be either 

straight or with turn-over points. The height should be I % 

or 2 inches in front and 1 }( or 1^ inches behind If straight, 

the corners should be sharp, and the opening should be from % to % inches. 

Collars that lap are no longer fashionable. The collars Nos. I, 2, 3, 

illustrated on page 11, are typical shapes suitable for full dress. 

The Shirt. The Full Dress Shirt may have either a linen or pique bosom, 
opening in front. If of linen it may be either plain, 
pleated or embroidered. The embroidered front is 
most desirable, the pleated front the least so, and the latter is not greatly in 
vogue. The plain front may have either a corded or hemstitched edge, the 
latter being very genteel. The embroidered front may have a very 
delicate line of embroidery running down the center upon the line of the 
eyelets : or it may have a similar double line, one on each flap with about 
two inches plain space between, in which are the eyelets. Large florid pat- 
terns of embroidery running over the whole front should be avoided. Neat 
all-over patterns of small dots, sprigs or other minute patterns, are in high 
favor and excellent taste. Pique shirts of plain ribbed or woven pattern are 
still worn but are not so popular as formerly. Embroidered piques on a fine 



ribbed ground, similar to those of embroidered linen, are in high favor. 
Some shirts are embroidered in colors more or less delicate. They are not 
suitable for full dress. One, two, or three studs may be used, according to 
the individual fancy, but two studs are considered the best form. 

The Tie. There is but one kind of tie permissible for full dress, — a 

plain lawn tie % to y % inches wide, tied by the wearer. 
Made-up ties should be avoided. Satin or silk ties are not 
used at present. 

The Cuffs. These may either lap for buttons, or barely meet, for links. 
The preference is for the latter, the latest shapes having a 
slight opening along their entire length. They may have 
either round or square corners, like the cuffs on page II. 

The "Jewelry. Absence of display being a characteristic of a modern gen- 
tleman's dress, no jewelry whatever is used except that 
which has a direct purpose, and this is kept as simple as pos- 
sible. It is limited to studs and cuff buttons, with a partial exception in 
favor of the watch chain. The studs and links may be either of white enamel 
with a gold back, or of plain gold, preferably of Roman finish, to avoid unde- 
sirable luster. If two or three studs are worn, they should be of modest 
size ; a single stud may be of more generous proportions. Diamonds are no 
longer worn by gentlemen. A pin of any kind in the shirt front is the 
height of vulgarity. A gold watch chain should never be worn with a dress 
suit. Many gentlemen do not wear any chains. A plain black silk guard 
chain, or the same mounted with gold, is in good taste. 

The Gloves. Pearl kids, with stitching of the same color, are the only 
proper gloves for full dress. They should be worn on all 
occasions of ceremony. 

The Shoes. Congress gaiters, with patent leather uppers and imitation 
silk stocking tops. 




The Prince Albert Suit. 



The Hat. The crush hat is no longer in use. A light-weight silk 

hat is the only wear, with full dress. 

Miscellan- An undervest of silk or woolen is a necessity with full 
eons. dress,.to protect the wearer against pneumonia and other 

diseases liable to result from wearing a low-cut vest with- 
out an additional undergarment. A muffler to protect the shirt front from 
soiling, and to be worn with the overcoat, is also a necessity. It should be 
of white silk. Many gentlemen, upon removing it, thrust it within the vest, 
leaving it slightly protruding over the shirt front. Such a disposal of it is 
unsightly and affected. It would better be left with the overcoat. 



The Prince Albert Suit. 

When to 'T^HE Prince Albert Suit maybe called the suit for 

Wear it. JL formal dress by day, as the Dress Suit is the suit 

par excellence of evening dress. It should be worn at wed- 
dings, receptions, dinners, and other formal occasions by daylight; and 
may be worn on any occasion but these in the evening. It may be summar- 
ized as the formal afternoon suit and the informal evening suit — that is, it 
is obligatory at formal affairs in the day, and optional at informal affairs in 
the evening. Well along in the afternoon a man may put on his Prince 
Albert Suit, and wear it on the street, at informal dinners, at the theatre or 
opera, for social calls, and, in fact, anywhere during the evening except at 
formal entertainments, where only full dress is suitable. As a rule, men of 
moderate tastes will wear the Prince Albert Suit in preference to the Full 
Dress or Cutaway, whenever the occasion permits of a choice. 

The Mate- For strict dress narrow wale worsteds, black or dark, of 

rials. very fine quality, should be used for the coat ; and the 

trousers and vest may be of the same material, if desired, 

but preferably different. The vest maybe made of any neat fancy vesting, 



or of plain or delicately tinted silk or Marseilles. The trousers should be 
of line goods, either checked or striped, and ranging from moderately dark 
to as light as the wearer may wish. Dove color or fawn in delicate stripes 
or checks are popular colorings, but almost any latitude is allowable. For 
street wear, and times when strict dress is not necessary, lighter colored 
goods may be used, gray worsteds, or modestly striped cheviots. 

The Cut. The coat is cut to close moderately high or to roll free, is 

silk-faced to end of button-holes and finished with flat 

braid. The vest should close with six buttons and have a 

notched collar, and the trousers should average 18 inches at the knee and 

17^ at the bottom. 

The Collar With the Prince Albert Suit there is more latitude for choice 

and Ctiffs. in collars, and besides those described in connection with 

the Full Dress Suit, any of the patterns shown on page 11 

may be used, according to the individual fancy, only remembering that 

violent extremes are not in good taste. The same is true of the cuffs. 

The Shirt. A plain white shirt with linen bosom is most suitable, al- 
though pique may be worn if desired, and there is no ob- 
jection to embroidery, except that it is almost entirely cov- 
ered. Shirts with color in them, such as cheviots, Madras, and fancy 
pique, should not be worn with a Prince Albert Suit, except, perhaps, with a 
light colored suit, on the street, at the race-track, or on similar occasions. 

The Scarf. A Four-in-Hand scarf 2 inches wide, tied by the wearer, 
is proper for strict dress. It may be pure white, white 
with small pattern in delicate colors, or of solid color of what 
are called "evening tints" — mauve, corn, azure, heliotrope, shrimp, etc., — 
the latter of gros grain or Ottoman silk. A flat scarf may be worn if de- 
sired, but flats are not much in favor at present. A small scarf pin may be 
worn with the flat scarf, but not with the Four-in-Hand. The made-up 
Four-in-Hand, called the Teck, is also popular, but, owing to its somewhat 





The Cutaway and Sack Suits. 



stiff shape, the best dressers prefer the Four-in-Hand. For half dress the 
latitude in the matter of scarfs is very large, covering the whole range of 
colors from black to white, and not only silks but also a wide range of sum- 
mer fabrics ; in fact the selection of the scarf is purely a matter of individ- 
ual taste. In New York the popular taste in summer wear this season is 
for light colors and whites, in silks, pongees, crepes, grenadines, piques, 
ducks, etc. 

The Gloves. For all formal occasions, pearl kids with stitching of me- 
dium size of the same color. For informal occasions, the 
street, etc., tan color, dressed or undressed kids, with 
medium stitching, either the same color or black. 

Shoes. For strict dress, patent leather, kid tops, with buttons. 

For the street, laced gaiters of leather, with kid top, toe- 
cap and round toe. 

Hats. Only a tall hat should be worn with a Prince Albert Suit. 

A silk hat is proper for formal dress, and a white, pearl or 
fawn for street wear. 



.The Cutaway and the Sack Suits. 

The Cutaway T^HE Cutaway Suit may 'almost be called the Suit 
and its Occasions . 1 Universal, for it is suitable to a greater variety of 
occasions, and is more affected by all sorts and conditions 
of people than any other. Its convenience and comfort render it popular 
for business; its neatness adapt it for most social occasions ; and it reaches 
from one end of the scale almost to the other. Some maintain that the 
Cutaway is solely a business, walking, or morning coat — "morning," in a 
social sense, meaning the time before the formal dinner, say 6 p.m. ; but 
this view is entirely too stringent, for good usage approves the Cutaway of 



10 

dark, fine material for all occasions except the most formal — such as wed- 
dings, parties, dinners, etc., whose character is indicated by written invita- 
tions. 

For dinners en famille or by verbal invitation, for the theatre or the 
opera — except with, parties — for ordinary social calls, for church, for the 
street — for all these occasions the Cutaway Suit is entirely proper ; although 
it does not by any means exclude the more formal Prince Albert or Dress 
Suit. It must always be borne in mind, however, that with this suit mate- 
rial is of much importance ; that coarse materials and bone buttons are 
never in place in the evening ; and that the Cutaway when worn socially, so 
to speak, must be dark and fine as to coat, while the trousers may be either 
dark, which is always good form, or lightish. 

It may be said for the Cutaway that it is the suit of good sense ; for it is 
alike adapted to the man who is fastidious in dress and him who only desires 
to avoid social gaucherie. 

The Sack and The proper purpose of the Sack Suit is business, or outdoor 
Its Occasions. pursuits or amusements. It is neglige, informal and com- 
fortable ; but its social status is that of the shirt sleeves — 
it has no place in the house. It is permissible anywhere in the morning ; 
at business, on the veranda, at a picnic or where formality is absent, and a 
comfortable relaxing takes its place ; but when the ladies dress, after lunch- 
eon, the Sack Suit must disappear from the house, and be replaced by the 
trimmer and therefore more formal Cutaway. 

In shape, the Sack may be cut with either round or square corners as the 
taste of the wearer may dictate ; and material too, is a matter of so wide 
range that it need not be touched on, further than to say that it is entirely 
subject to individual preference. 

Accessories. The latitude for selection as to what may be worn with 

these two suits is so great that there is very little necessity 

for instruction. In the selection of suitings, of scarfs, of 

vests, of collars, one may please his own fancy, selecting only such articles 



II 




No. i. 





No. 3. 



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No. 4. 



No. 5. 



12 

as are not fantastic or unusual. Elsewhere, the types of prevailing styles in 
minor articles are described with requisite fullness, and a selection to please 
the individual fancy may safely be made amongst those types. 

The Shape. Both Cutaway and Sack are now made with a longer roll 
to the collar, to permit a small portion of the shirt front to 
be seen. The vests are cut considerably lower and with 
wider openings than last season, showing a fair share of the shirt bosom 
when the coat is worn open. The shapes of the scarfs are adjusted to this, 
the Four-in-Hand and Teck being'the favorites. This wider opening of the 
vests is also favorable to the wearing of fancy shirts of colored pique, pat- 
tern percales, cheviots, etc., which are only proper with a Cutaway or Sack 
Suit. 

Vests. White and fancy vests of duck, or similar material, are 

very desirable with Cutaway or Sack Suits, especially for 
summer wear. 

Hats. Any hat may be worn with a Cutaway Suit, and any hat 

but a silk hat may be worn with a Sack Suit. 



Collars and Cuffs. 

FO R full dress the range for selection is limited to three patterns, of 
which the patterns Nos. l, 2 and 3, shown upon the adjoining 
page, are types. Collars of extreme height and large points have been 
abandoned by good dressers, and the tendency is toward less height and 
smaller points. The height in front above the button-hole may range 
from 1^ to iy z as extremes, with 2 inches as the favorite medium, and from 
\]/ 2 in the back to 1^ inches high. In straight seam collars the corners are 
sharp as shown in the cuts. The opening may vary from exact perpendicu- 



13 

lar to very slightly V-shaped, and from % to ^ inches in width. If turned 
points are preferred, the points should not be longer than those shown on 
No. 3. The points should close at the bottom, and the size should not vary 
much from 2 inches height in front and \% behind. 

For half dress and neglige the range for selection is considerably wider, 
the only actual requirement being the avoidance of extreme heights, such as 
the 2Y2, inch patterns and the very long and large points. 

The type of cuff most recommended is that of which No. 4 is an 
example. Link cuffs are by far the most fashionable, but button cuffs, of 
course, always retain a degree of popularity. The link cuff may also be 
rounded slightly at the corners as shown in No. 5. 



Shirts 



FULL dress requires a plain white linen bosom shirt, a plain white 
ribbed pique shirt, or either linen or pique, embroidered in white. 
Pleated bosoms are somewhat used but are not greatly in favor. The em- 
broidery should be in a single narrow delicate line down the front, or in two 
lines, one on each flap, and about two inches apart. Large florid embroi- 
dery is in bad taste. No color is admissible. An all-over embroidered pat- 
tern of small spots, delicate sprigs or similar design, is also in excellent taste. 
One, two, or three studs may be used, but two studs are the best form. 

Half Dress, with the Prince Albert or Cutaway Suits, requires a plain 
white shirt. 

With street dress, morning dress, business dress, or neglige, either white 
or fancy shirts may be worn, as desired. Fancy pique's with colored patterns 
or embroidery, percales, cheviots, etc., are proper only for business or rec- 
reation, and should never be worn in the evening nor for afternoon calling, nor 



14 

in the house on any occasion except when neglige dress is permissible, as at 
the seaside or at summer resorts. 

For business, for the street and for morning wear, fancy percale, pique or 
cheviot shirts, are most suitable and becoming, and are in some respects 
preferable to whit* shirts. They may be worn either with white 
collars and cuffs, with collars and cuffs to match the shirt, or with collar to 
match, with turned points of white. 



Scarfs and Ties. 

TH E proper tie for a Full Dress Suit is a straight band of white lawn, 
5 s to % inches wide, tied by the wearer in a square bow with short 
ends. Made-up ties should not be used. Satin and silk ties are not now 
considered good form with full dress. 

The Four-in-Hand Scarf, tied by the wearer, and the Teck, or made-up 
Four-in-Hand, are by far the most fashionable scarfs of this year. The 
proper width is 2 or 2% inches with the narrower width in most favor. 
Ties of greater width than 1% inches have gone out entirely. They are 
worn with every style of suit except the Full Dress. They are necessary 
with the Prince Albert Suit for strict dress, and when so worn should be of 
silk or satin, either plain white, white with delicate colored pattern, or in 
solid tints of delicate colors, such as corn, mauve, saffron, azure, heliotrope, 
pink, etc. For informal dress, street wear, business, etc., they may embrace 
any material or color whatsoever, — silk, satin, grenadine, crepe, pongee, 
pique or duck, ranging from white to black and including both high and low 
colors. Favorite grounds are indigos, with white or light blue spots of all 
sizes, slates and electric blues with flame and flesh-colored spots. Silk 
crepes and grenadines, embroidered with white and colors in small figures, are 
the choicest things of the season. The delicate colorings and fabrics that are 
most suitable for evening and house wear are worn this season a good deal upon 



15 

the street also. A scarf pin should not be worn with a Four-in-Handor Teck 
scarf. 

The Flat Scarf may be worn with half dress, for street, business or neg- 
lige. The wide patterns should be avoided and the long and narrow shape 
selected, that the shirt bosom may show upon each side of it to conform to 
the prevailing lower cut of the vests. Any material or color may be worn, 
as observed of the Four-in-Hand. A small scarf pin should always be worn 
with a flat scarf. 

The Windsor tie is most suitable for neglige dress, and may be worn with 
a Sack Suit, with boating, yachting, hunting, shooting, or lounging gar- 
ments, in the country, at the seaside or elsewhere, where ease goes before 
stiffness and formality. 

A made-up Windsor, or Windsor band bow, has been introduced this 
season, and is a handsome and appropriate substitute for the Windsor, 
which is difficult to tie nicely. The diagram herewith will show how to tie 
the Windsor. 

The De Joinville is a handsome scarf but little worn, mainly because of the 
difficulty in tying it. It may either be worn with a ring, or tied as shown 
in the accompanying diagram and secured with a pin. In bright colors it is 
a handsome and suitable scarf for street wear with a Prince Albert Suit, and 
in delicate colors is no less suitable for house wear, although not at present 
fashionable with strict dress. Before wearing, it should be folded and 
pressed with an iron, to form a band about the neck, the ends remaining 
un pressed. 

Gloves. 

FO R occasions of high ceremony gloves must be worn ; and they should 
be worn on all occasions when full dress is essential. For full dress, 
pearl colored kids with stitching of the same color and of medium width, are 
the only proper wear. 



i6 

For the street, and for calling, tan gloves with similar colored or black 
siitching are proper. Undressed tan kids are also very popular for walk- 
ing gloves. 

For driving, heavy tan gloves of castor, dogskin, or other heavier leather, 
with heavy black pitching ; and brown lisle gloves with kid lined fingers 
are the proper thing. 



Hats. 

WI T H a Dress Suit or Prince Albert Suit wear only a silk hat. The 
only exception to this rule is in the light colored Prince Albert 
Suit for street wear. With this a tall white hat may be worn if desired. 

With a Cutaway Suit, wear any hat desired, according to the occasion — 
a silk hat for perfect neatness, a Derby on any or all occasions, and a soft 
or straw hat for neglige. 

With a Sack Suit wear anything whatsoever but a silk hat, which should 
never accompany it. 

Shoes. 

FO R full dress, the shoes should be of patent leather with gaiter tops 
in imitation of silk stockings. 
For half dress, button shoes with patent leather uppers with kid or dark 
cloth tops are correct. The toes are round and of moderate width. 

For the street, a leather laced gaiter shoe with round toe and toe-cap is 
recommended ; and for walking, a heavy double-sole laced shoe of leather 
with kid tops. 

For neglige, yachting, the seaside, etc., a shoe of russet calf, either 
laced or Oxford, is desirable, 



17 

Dress for Various Occasions. 

Evening A T evening weddings and receptions, at balls, parties, 

Wear. -*^ dinners, at the theatre and the opera with parties, 

at parlor concerts, etc., wear only a Full Dress Suit. It 

may also be worn with propriety on any occasion and in any place whatever 

during the evening. 

For formal evening calls either the Full Dress or the Prince Albert Suit 
may be worn. 

For social evening calls, at informal or family dinners, at the theatre, 
opera or concert, except with parties, either the Full Dress, Prince Albert or 
Cutaway Suits may be worn. 

Day Wear. At day weddings and receptions, at afternoon teas, and 
when making formal afternoon calls, wear a Prince Albert 
Suit only. 

For afternoon wear, for the promenade, for outdoor social occasions, such 
as race-meetings, etc., wear either the Prince Albert or the Cutaway. 

For business wear either the Cutaway or the Sack. 

For neglige, at picnics, excursions, the seaside, the country, the moun- 
tains, etc., wear the Sack, or the Norfolk, with Knickerbockers. 

For yachting, wear blue flannel. 

For tennis, bicycling, and other athletic suits, wear the special suits of 
flannel prepared for each. 






18 






How to Tie a De Joinville 



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At*)' 



or Windsor Scarf. 




How to Tie a Four-in- H and. 
Adjust the tie with long end to the right, stand before the glass, and follow diagram. 



* * * 



£4UR stock comprises every article of Men's Furnishings 
in latest styles and great variety. 



SHIRTS : Fine Dress Shirts of Linen and Pique, 
Plain, Embroidered or Pleated. Percale, Madras, 
or Cheviot Shirts. French and Scotch Flannels 
for Neglige, Bicycle, Boating, Tennis, and 
Yachting Shirts. 

HOSIERY : French and English Hosiery in Bal- 
briggan, Lisle, Merino, Cashmere and Silk, all 
qualities, all popular colors and patterns. 

UNDERWEAR: Best quality Underwear in 
all weights and sizes. Fine line of choice 
shades in Balbriggans of extra quality, Merino, 
Silk-Mixed and Natural Wool. 



* * * 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Name, Business and Address Here 



Collars and Cuffs. 

Latest London and New York styles. Best quality. 

Scarfs and Ties. 

Froper shapes for every occasion. Ties, Flats, Puffs, 
Four-in-Hands, Tecks, Windsors, De Joinvilles, in 
all the popular fabrics and colors for every season, 
such as Gros Grains, Ottomans, Baratheas, Armures, 
Armozeens, Nattes, Mattelasses. .... 
For Summer, Silk Crepes, Grenadines and Zephyrs, 
Piques, Linens, etc. ...... 

Handkerchiefs — Linen, Japanese and Chinese Silk, Hemstitched, Fancy 
Print, Etc. 

Scarf Pins, Studs, Links, Buttons, Gloves, Mufflers, Etc., Etc. 



Conservation Resources 
Lig-Free® Type I 

01. o c d..«t«.. a j 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

mui 

014 149 108 8 



